The Australia Chronicles – Mataranka – We Of The Never Never

Out on the wastes of the Never Never

That’s where the dead men lie!

There where the heat-waves dance forever –

That’s where the dead men lie!Where the dead men lie by Barcroft Boake

The Never Never is used to describe a vast remote area of the Australian outback. I spent 3 months living and working in my never never. A very small place called Mataranka in the Northern Territory. It is 6 hours drive south of Darwin and is on the Stuart Highway, which runs right down the middle of Australia, from Darwin via Alice Springs and all the way down to Port Augusta in South Australia, because of this many people only end up stopping in Mataranka for fuel, a bathroom break and to grab some food so they never really experience it in all its outback beauty.

There is one thing Mataranka is famous for, a book called We Of The Never Never by Jeannie Gunn. Which I have never actually gotten round to reading.
It has become part of Australian Folklore and details the journey of Jeannie, who was the first white woman to settle in the Mataranka area accompanying her husband who was the station manager at Elsey cattle station.

The town is really into milking this book for everything, The towns sign says “Mataranka – Capital Of The Never Never”. If you are entering the town from the north on the Stuart Highway you will pass a park on the left filled with statues of all the main characters from the book.

In the 80’s they made a film about the book and they built a replica of the homestead Jeannie lived in and it still stands to this day near the thermal pools.

That’s another thing Mataranka is famous for, it’s two hot springs. There are the Thermal Pools and Bitter Springs.


One weekend my housemate Lucy and I walked the 6km from our house to go for a swim in the bitter springs. It was incredible, the water was so blue and so clear. You start at one end of the springs and using a pool noodle to float you allow the current to carry you to the other end. A little azure oasis in this red dusty place, well it was until about 40 school children showed up.

The Bitter Springs. No filter or editing needed, it really is that blue!

I didn’t manage to get to the Thermal Springs as they are up by the homestead and as we didnt have a car that would of been about an 11km walk each way, which isn’t particularly doable or sensible in 35 degree heat. I do know that the Thermal Springs are a lot more of a man made structure, a little bit like a heated swimming pool, surrounded by lush greenery.

Other things of interest in this tiny town that I think people should see if they are ever in this part of the world are the worlds largest man made termite mound! There’s a button on it and it’s suppose to tell you all about the town but when ever I went there is wasn’t working.


The stockyard gallery and garden cafe is a quaint little place, complete with another statue of a character from We Of The Never Never. Caricatures of aboriginal people line the wall above the counter and the gallery is filled with books, aboriginal art work and souvenirs, you can enjoy a good BLT for $8 while sitting in a tropical garden, be careful though as the locals birds that fill the trees may come and pester you for some of your lunch, they did when I was there!

And finally I think everyone who comes to Mataranka should pop into the Mataranka Store and Service Station and it’s not just because that’s where I worked!


The owner Judy has owned the business for 40 years and the store contains everything you could ever want! It’s really like an aladdins cave!  It always amused me when British tourists would come into the store because they always ask me how exactly I ended up here! It’s like they can’t image how anyone from back home would find a job in such a small place in the middle of the outback. The Aussies are funny as well so many have said to me “you British really do get everywhere!”

The Australia Chronicles – Mataranka – Life in the Outback

After my first month in Australia I found myself in a position I didnt think I would be in so early on. I was now going to be a solo traveller.

I left my friend at Cairns airport waiting for her flight back to the UK while I flew to Darwin to start my outback adventure. I had managed to find a job via gumtree in a general store in a town called Mataranka, in the Northern Territory. It’s a very small place of about 400 people, 6 hours drive south of Darwin and it was going to be my home for the next three months. I spent the night in Darwin a very dingy hostel and was woken up three times in the night by a French girl because I was snoring and waking someone up to tel them they are snoring obviously means they will stop doing it. I can’t bloody help it, I wish I could. It’s quite an embarrassing trait to have when sharing dorm rooms with people and has always made me very anxious. A Danish girl in Airlie beach said she was amazed by my snoring as it sounded like a bear! 

Found my street in Darwin

The next day I caught the greyhound coach to Mataranka. I’m going be completely honest with you, that coach trip was probably one of the worst journeys I have ever taken, not because of the actual coach ride but because I was absolutely terrified to do this whole travelling thing alone. One thing I was confident of was that I knew that if I had joined my friend in returning home it would have been the biggest regret of my life and I would of always wondered what if I had just had the guts to do it. I didn’t know if I could do this alone but I had to try and I’m so glad I did. My friend going home to the UK turned out to be the best thing that ever happened to me, I just didn’t feel like that at the time.

When I got off the coach at the United Service Station in town the driver looked at me quizzically and said what the hell are you doing staying in a place like this?! I told him I had a job here and he wished me luck saying I would need it.

The sun was starting to set as I was picked up from the service station by Toni, my landlady, she gave me a quick tour of the two roads in the town then drove me to the house I would be staying in. We drove down a road surrounded on both sides by the bush, wallabies leaping in front of the cars headlights, Toni not even flinching.

The “street” my house was on

Now when she told me I would be staying in a four bedroom house with the other workers I don’t know why I had in my mind that it would be a nice two story house, all mod cons, with a Veranda and a nice little garden that I could sit and sunbathe in. (My Welsh housemate thought that same thing!) You can image the shock I had when we pulled into the driveway and I was met by what is basically a tin shed!
She showed me around the “house”. The bathroom that’s outside in which she once had to rescue a girl from a snake, the kitchen that is filled with plastic cutlery and plates, the broken sofas that have only been here a month, before that they had no furniture in the living room/kitchen. Finally I was shown to my room, a metal box, with a concrete floor, the only furniture being a bed and a chest of drawers (with two condoms in for some reason was one supermax and one ultra thin!?!?) no curtains, no homely touches. Nothing. Purely the basics.

The house

Now I’m not ashamed to admit this but when Toni left I sat on my bed and cried. For about an hour. The shock of the house being completely the opposite of what I expected, realising I was actually doing this alone, the fact I was in the middle of nowhere and couldn’t contact anyone to let them know how I was because only one phone network works here and my phone was still locked to a UK network. It was all very scary at that point!

I was still in panic mode up until I met the three girls I live with. I knew they are gonna be the things that make this place bearable. There was Skye the German, Lucy the Welsh and Shauna the Irish. Sounds like a bad joke right?

That first night I didn’t sleep well, the new strange noises of my surroundings preventing me from reaching the land of nod. The crickets, the dogs barking in the distance, the strange rustling coming from the bushes surrounding the house.
It is a very odd feeling to find yourself in the middle of nowhere with no one familiar to talk to but we change, we adapt, we evolve to deal with the curve balls that life throws at us and I for one was going to try and make the best out of this bizarre place I have found myself in.

The Australia Chronicles : Australia Zoo and The Rest Of The East Coast

After our hasty exit from Wooli we found ourselves on a greyhound coach to Brisbane with no idea what to do next.

Louise had decided that she didn’t want to go home right away but in two weeks time so she could finish our original plan to travel the rest of the east coast up to Cairns.

We spent our two days in beautiful Brisbane sitting by the lagoon and planing the rest of the trip. We bought a hop on hop off greyhound coach ticket, which I highly recommend because it was very good value and incredibly flexible, to Cairns and decided on the places we would stay.

Our route ended up like this:

Go to Australia Zoo from there catch the coach to Noosa and spend one night. Then it was on to Hervey Bay for two nights, Airlie Beach for two nights then Cairns for a week.

The Glass House Mountains as seen from the coach on the way to Australia Zoo

I have always been a massive Steve Irwin fan, I remember watching The Crocodile Hunter as a kid and knew I couldn’t pass up the chance to visit Australia Zoo and it did not disappoint. The Crocoseum show is a must do when visiting Australia Zoo, the trained native birds put on a spectacular show but best of all is obviously when the keepers are feeding the crocadiles.

Casually taking a cheetah for a walk
The Crocoseum show

As we didn’t really stay in any of the other places long enough they don’t really warrant a separate blog posts each but these are some of the sites we saw along the way.

On one of our overnight coach journeys we stopped at a roadhouse that is famous for this huge statue of a kangaroo called Matilda

The only picture I took in Noosa #hostellife

Hervey Bay
Cairns Lagoon

My biggest regret about doing the east coast is the fact we didn’t do any of the stuff people do the east coast for, we didnt go to Fraser Island or the Whitsundays or do anything to do with the Great Barrier Reef. Our focus was mainly just to get to Cairns so Louise could fly back home to the UK and I could fly to Darwin to start working.

The Australia Chronicles : Woofing in Wooli

After Melbourne we took a Firefly coach to Sydney. We spent two days there and I honestly have nothing to write about it at the moment because when we were there one of the biggest storms to hit Eastern Australia in years was in full swing and it didn’t stop hammering it down with rain the entire time we were there. ( I have since been back to Sydney and so will write about it later)

While in Sydney we got offered the chance via Gumtree to go woofing (working in exchange for accommodation instead of a wage) at the Solitary Islands Resort in a place called Wooli in New South Wales. A tiny little place with the sea on one side and a river on the other. In other words paradise!

We were told that for four hours work a day we would get free accommodation, free food, free alcohol, free wifi, use of a car, use of all the resort facilities including swimming pool, canoes and bikes.

We hopped on a train to Grafton and waited to be picked up by the guy who manages all the backpackers for the resort.

We had been waiting about 40minutes when this pick up truck pulls up beside us and an Aussie bloke says “are you the two Pom backpackers waiting for me?”

This bloke is Dave “The Cat” so called because he has nine lives apparently. This man was crushed between two lorries, broke his back and was told he would never walk again, he eventually had some groundbreaking new surgery that fixed the issue and how he has no problems with it. He had skin cancer and was told he only had 6 months to live only to be put on a drug trial and now be pretty much clear of cancer two years later. He was also once bitten by a shark! He showed us the scars on his leg.

Anyway Dave drove us the 40 minutes to Wooli, along dark country roads, at one point we saw lots of wild horses crossing the road to get away from flood water.

We arrived at the resort quite late at night, I have never seen a sky so clear and so full of stars it was awe inspiring . Dave gave us a quick tour of the site in his truck then took us to our beach hut to settle in the night.

We woke up the next day to the sounds of parrots in the trees and beautiful clear blue sky’s, a massive change to our last few days in a grey wet Sydney. We also met the other guys woofing there. There was Brad, an Aussie guy who works there to be closer to his son, and there were the two Germans, Jonas and Sebastian.


We were meant to start our “job” of painting a cabin that day but after seeing the state of the camp kitchen that we were meant to be using we decided to spend the day cleaning and organising that. It was a mammoth job that took about four hours but everyone was very pleased with our work. Jonas even said he would be happy to cook in it now.

We wanted to take a trip into Wooli itself so Brad offered to drive us down there. He acted as our tour guide and did a very bad job of it mainly because my friend Louise is very inquisitive, nosey and asks as many questions as a 5 year old, Brad got quite exasperated by this as he couldn’t answer most of her questions. We got to see the waterfall that had been created because of all the rain from the storm and the beautiful Wooli beach.

Eventually we headed back to the resort so we could make dinner for everyone. I say we, I chopped the veg and Louise cooked it all. We had Lamb chops that were more bone and gristle than meat and what I like to call “British style” veg meaning they were all terribly over cooked, not good.
A new girl, Rachael from York joined us that night so 7 of us and Coco (the restore owners parrot) all sat down to eat and drink. Coco ate most of the roast potatoes.

The three boys and Rachael carried on drinking when we headed back to chill in the beach hut for a while, Louise found lots of ants in her bed. We sprayed some bug spray and went back to join the other for a few drinks.
On our return to the beach hut there were even bigger ants in her bed! Now for a normal person that wouldn’t be that big a problem but for her it was. She has a massive phobia of bugs (I know, Australia was the wrong country to go to!) When I say massive phobia I mean it, she basically had a panic attack which included her slapping and scratching herself. It was pretty scary to watch and to try and calm her down. Eventually she got into the top bunk but couldn’t sleep, we stayed up talking and that’s when she decided that she wanted to go home, when we hadn’t even been in Australia 2 weeks! I think if she could of gotten on a plane to the U.K. then and there she would of. I told her to try and sleep on it and not make any rash decisions.

In the morning she had made up her mind, she wanted out of Wooli and out of Australia.

We went to find Dave to explain the situation, in tears she told him that she just can not stay another night here, thankfully he was sound with us, offering us a lift to the coach station and saying if we ever want to come back we can.

For one day and two nights I got to stay in paradise, experiencing the Australia I really want to see. Not the busy places that every backpacker goes to, I wanted to see off the beaten track places, the real Australia. Little did I know how true that wish was about to become.

The Australia Chronicles : Melbourne

On Melbourne summer mornings the green trams go rolling in stately progress down tunnels thick with leaves: the bright air carries along the avenue their patient chime, the chattering of their wheels” – Helen Garner

My first sight of Melbourne was from the plane as we were flying in to land and I knew it was love at first sight.

After leaving London at 10:35pm on the 25th of May and arriving, Via China, at 8:40am on the 27th of May 2016 (A total of 25 hours and 11215 miles) I think any sight that was not the inside of a plane was very welcomed but my initial thoughts on seeing Melbourne from the sky were very true and after visiting it again a year and a half later with my mum, it will always be one of my favourite cities in the world.

We stayed just on the edge of the city in a suburb called St Kilda formally known for prostitutes and druggies, it is now THE place for backpackers to stay, due to its transport links to the city and plenty of hip bars. We stayed in a hostel on Fitzroy street called The Ritz for backpackers, at first we were a bit overwhelmed and wary of the hostel and its inhabitants. We were both brand new to the whole backpacking thing and I was very anxious about everything. But looking back now it was definitely one of the better hostels we have stayed it even if the bar downstairs was very loud on the weekends. The fact that there was a tram stop right out was a huge bonus for getting around the city.

We were there for a week and definitely managed to cram a lot in.

On the first night thanks to a tip from my friend Angsty (a friend from the UK who lived in St Kilda for a while, You will here about him again because I ended up living with him in Christchurch, NZ.)

We went for a walk along St Kilda pier and saw the Penguins that live there. We arrived at dusk and found a spot on the deck away from other people, the air was filled with anticipation and the hidden Penguins calling to each other. Then suddenly one penguin takes the first brave step out from between the rocks right next to where we are standing. It is eventually joined by many more scattered amongst the rocks.

St Kilda is full of independent coffee shops, bar and resturants, it has a great little market on the esplanade on a Sunday, trees filled with bright coloured parrots and of course it has the historical amusement park with the creepy face on the entrance, Luna Park.

We spent one day wondering around the massive Queen Victoria Markets, a must see for anyone who likes shopping whether it’s for clothes, souvenirs or food. We invested in some warmer clothes because Melbourne is bloody freezing in June! We ate one of the best chocolate filled donuts I have ever had and sampled some warm sugar coated macadamias from a lovely stall holder who talked to us about Britain’s Got Talent.

Melbourne Zoo was another great day out. We got lost getting the tram there but that was all part of the adventure and it meant we got to see parts of the city we would never normally see. The orangutan a were my favourite animal there mainly because we could get so close, just a piece of glass separated us from three of these beautiful and playful creatures.

Another great thing to see/do is go for a walk around the botanical gardens then go up the Shrine Of Remembrance. As well as being a place to reflect on the sacrifices of our fallen soldiers it has a fantastic view over the city.

Melbourne is famous for its street art. Hosier Lane is the most famous place to see street art but I was also amazed by how you can just be walking through the city, look down an unassuming alley way in the business district and be faced with an incredible piece of art work. Below is a very small sample of my favourites.

Being the first city I landed in after embarking on this adventure, Melbourne will always have a special place in my heart, the fact that it is also just an awesome place to visit helps too.

After spending a week in Melbourne we then headed to Sydney….